EYEBROW BEAUTIFUL

Tips for those over-plucked brows

Thursday September 17,2009

By Bonnie Estridge

If you have been over-enthusiastic with your tweezers, don't despair. Here are some top remedies for rescuing over-plucked brows.

MAKE-UP TRICKS

If your eyebrows are very fair or sparse, use a soft pencil or powder eyebrow make-up. Pencils can look hard if you are heavy-handed so brushing on a special powder can give a softer look. Choosing the right shade is essential.

Celebrity make-up artist Ariane Poole has the following advice: “If you have highlighted blonde, white or grey hair, match the colour to the darkest tone in your hair. If you have dark hair use the same colour on your eyebrows. Never lighten them.

“Never test eyebrow products on your hand as the natural oils alter the colour. Test on your brows and check the result in daylight. When using a brow product, always brush the eyebrow down and fill along the top edge as this lifts the eyebrows up for a lovely arch. Then brush the hairs back and fill in any gaps.”

Brow powders to try are Ariane Poole Brow Kit, £9 (arianepoole.com) or Body Shop Brow And Liner Kit, £9.75 (thebodyshop.co.uk).

Give a polished finish by slicking a light gel over the hairs. Try US celebrity favourite Blinc Eyebrow And Lash Primer, £16 (blincuk.co.uk).

You could also use a temporary dye to boost colour. Try Colorsport 30 Day Mascara Eyelash And Brow Dye Kit, £7.10 (Superdrug).

THE PERFECT SHAPE

Eyebrow technician Karen Betts says: “Work with what you have. Only pluck eyebrows from above if there are stray hairs and those that are removed shouldn’t affect the shape of the eyebrow itself. Pluck in the direction the hairs grow after a warm bath when the skin is soft and pores are open.

“To see where the brow should begin place a pencil vertically against the side of your nose. The point at which the pencil touches the eye socket is where your brow should begin. With one end of the pencil still touching the side of your nose move it along the brow until it hits the outer corner of the eye. If you continue that line, you will see where the brow should end. Tweeze away any hairs that do not fall between these lines.

“Eyebrow stencils can give a template but do not take into account the dimensions of the brow area so the pencil technique is better.

“The arch should start slightly off-centre of the iris (the coloured part of the eye) towards the outer corner of the eye as this is what gives the illusion of lifting the cheekbones. It should be a gentle slope rather than a steep upside-down V. Generally brows should measure around 4.5cm in length. After plucking soothe brows with witch hazel.”

SEMI-PERMANENT MAKE-UP

If you have patchy brows or have lost the hair completely, you can have them tattooed on using semi-permanent make-up.

This brow colour is produced from mineral micro-pigments that are applied by a therapist using a tiny electric needle to “draw” on individual hairs.

Restoring sparse eyebrows or creating completely new ones so they look natural is a true artistic task that should only ever be carried out by an expert.

Karen Betts says: “If someone has no brows at all I measure the face in great detail so I can work out exactly where their eyebrows should be and then I outline the shape of each with an eyebrow pencil.

“Once it is right and I’ve blended the inks to an accurate match to the client’s hair colour I work with the needle, painting dozens of tiny hair-like strokes. It takes around an hour.”

The pigments can stay in the skin permanently so it is important to go to an expert who will make sure the colour is correct. Prices start from £595.

For more information call 0845 644 3994 or visit karenbetts.co.uk

CAN YOU RE-GROW BROWS?

If you have over-plucked or very sparse brows it may be worth trying a product that claims to rejuvenate the hair follicles. Brow Revive contains a blend of 19 organic oils and does appear to succeed in nourishing the hair and stimulating growth. It costs £79 for a nine-month supply (lashalive.co.uk).

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