Harbouring a passion for Sydney

Sydney really did get the looks when God made The Lucky Country. It’s difficult finding a comparable city with such gorgeous attributes. The focal point is its harbour with curved bays crowned with some serious real estate costing serious money. Then there are the beaches offering top-class surfing and stunning cliff walks. By night, it comes into its own with award-winning restaurants and lively bars where it’s always happy hour.

SUNSHINE Bondi beach in Sydney SUNSHINE: Bondi beach in Sydney

CULINARY DELIGHTS

In a country that reveres its sunlight, I wonder why so many restaurants are so dimly lit? Take Jimmy Lix in Potts Point. It’s so dark, menus have little torches clipped to them. Long, low, lacquered tables with bench seats face cantilevered walls under brightly-coloured silk runners suspended from the ceiling. The Asian menu is superb, staff friendly with dishes including salt ’n’ pepper squid, corn fritters, and trout curry.

The current coastal hotspot is the North Bondi Italian. This two-storey glass-fronted eatery is packed with local luvvies who congregate for the cocktails and views. It’s busy, boisterous and perfect for people watching. The enormous central bar is lined with bottles of Campari and Pimm’s and the paper placemats also serve as menus.

Low-hung giant lampshades dangle over heavy wooden tables and the waiting staff look comical in their white T-shirts and oversized overalls, rather resembling Amish farmers. Unfortunately the food disappoints, particularly the pasta, but steaks are above par.

Across the bay, that Bondi institution Icebergs still pulls ’em in. Clinging to the cliff face, above the famous outdoor pool where the surf flows over the surrounding boulders pounding the swimmers, every table offers sweeping views of the iconic horseshoe bay of Bondi. There’s no better place for lunch than this non-fussy, minimalist restaurant. Soft furnishings in hues of the seasonal seas – from deep greens to royal blues – punctuate the white walls and tables. Let yourself be mesmerised by the surfers while you dine on pricey-yet innovative dishes such as polenta and crab, carpaccio of trout, hand-dived Hervey Bay scallops and Flinders Island salt-crusted lamb.

For another bite of Australia’s renowned culinary repertoire, cheesemakers McIntosh & Bowman offer a tasting with a difference on their cheese and wine experience. The 2d hour tour is led by the exuberant “walking encyclopedia in all things cheesy”, Claudia McIntosh who escorts guests by ferry to Fort Denison on the uninhabited island in Sydney Harbour, also a popular spot for weddings and private celebrations.

Our group of 17 sit around a large table brimming with an assortment of wines and plates of cheese. Claudia, who has a UK diploma in the stuff, delivers a highly entertaining lecture on how to taste cheese (smell first then eat with fingers) and the way the varieties are made. Informative and fun.

McIntosh & Bowman (0422 728 505/www.mcintoshandbowman.com) offers cheese and wine experiences from $160pp (£78.50).

GETTING YOUR BEARINGS/TOURING

It’s fair to say getting around Sydney requires sharp navigational skills or a good satnav. There’s the little matter of a harbour that breaks up the land mass, dividing the city.

Thankfully, there’s plenty of choice of public transport. The Sydney Explorer, a hop-on, hop-off bus, takes you past all the top landmarks.

Cruise down elegant Macquarie Street with its historic sandstone buildings; cross the Harbour Bridge before weaving through Darling Harbour where you can stop off at the Sydney Aquarium and Maritime Museum. The infamous King’s Cross has the city’s largest concentration of bars and restaurants.

And let’s not forget the harbour. On a Matilda cruise you’ll get within touching distance of all of Sydney’s great landmarks. Gasp at the brave bridge climbers atop the highest span on the harbour bridge; spend time at Taronga Zoo where giraffes have a million-dollar view before disembarking at Watson’s Bay for fish and chips on the sand at Doyles.

l Matilda Cruises (www.matilda.com.au) offers a Sydney Harbour Express Cruise from $35pp (£17).

A NIGHT AT THE OPERA

It may be one of the world’s most recognisable structures, but the Sydney Opera House has a dark side. The brilliant Danish architect Jorn Utzon never saw his completed masterpiece. Political interference caused him to resign from the project after funding was halted in 1966. Work resumed but he refused to return to the city.

This and more can be gleaned during a fascinating tour that takes you through this labour of love, tinged with sadness. You’ll see the theatres, auditoriums and admire up close the superb craftmanship of this extraordinary structure.

l Sydney Opera House (www.sydneyoperahouse.com) offers tours from $35pp (£17).

I LOVE THE NIGHTLIFE

Decadence reigns supreme at the new Ivy club atop a downtown office block. Striped cabanas and white sunloungers surrounding a pool evoke a beach club in Miami. And if it’s cozy you want, there is an array of themed rooms – from the gentlemen’s club-themed bar with chesterfields to the art deco sushi bar with smoke-mirrored walls.

In Sydney, the gay community are well respected and well catered for. For a fun night out head to the Stonewall Hotel on Oxford Street to catch the hilarious (free) show where men with bodies that would make Madonna weep, strut their stuff miming to all those Diva greats.

BE TRINNIED AND SUSANNAHED

Sydney has its own Trinny, Siobhain Young, (not nearly as scary) of Chic In The City Tours. Book in for a wardrobe detox and shopping tour.

Whether you’re size eight or 18, Siobhain will get the measure of you in minutes, assessing your lifestyle before offering simple, easy to administer tips on how to improve your look: wear short necklaces and big earrings to draw attention to your face; hold a clutch bag under the arm as opposed to down low (makes you look shorter). Then hit the chicest boutiques in town showcasing local designers.

l Chic In The City Tours (www.chicinthecitytours.com.au) offers a two-hour Wardrobe Detox from $380pp (£186).

BEDDING DOWN

One really should have a harbour view when one goes to Sydney. You can’t beat The Sebel Pier One (dialling from UK: 00 612 8298 9999/ www.sebelpierone.com.au) with its distinctive bluestone buildings, directly under the iconic arched bridge and a stone’s throw from the historic rocks.

Comfy rooms are not overly modern but make sure you ask for a watery view. With the restaurant and bar extending out on to the pier you’ll feel grandiose tucking into your fry-up at brekkie time.

Trendy Darlinghurst is cafe-central in Sydney. Tree-lined streets are packed with bars and restaurants, it’s a magnet for the beautiful people.

The boutique Kirketon Hotel (9332 2011/www.kirketon.com.au) is a hidden gem. Smoky walls, flat screen TVs in communal areas showing old B&W films and stylish rooms with huge beds, oversized beds and chandeliers mean this is this is serious rock star chic, yet affordable.

GETTING THERE:

Bridge & Wickers (020 7483 6555/www.bridgeandwickers.co.uk) offers a two-week break to Sydney and New South Wales from £1,690pp (two sharing), including return flights to Sydney with Emirates from Heathrow or Gatwick, private transfers, four nights at the Kirketon Hotel, three nights at the Sebel Pier One, seven days car hire, three nights at Dolphin Sands in Jervis Bay, two nights at Old Leura Dairy in the Blue Mountains and two nights at the Hunter Resort in Hunter Valley, all room only.

Emirates (0844 800 2777/www.emirates.com/uk) offers return flights on board the A380 aircraft from Heathrow to Sydney from £593.

Carrentals (www.carrentals.co.uk) offers seven days car hire from Sydney Airport from £118.

Tourism New South Wales: www.sydney.com

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