Rebuilding an island paradise

As the tsunami fades into a distant memory, Sri Lanka is reinventing itself with a raft of elegant new hotels. JILL HARTLEY picks some of the best

The coast at Galle The coast at Galle

THE teardrop-shaped island of Sri Lanka has had its share of recent troubles but the timeless appeal of its ancient Buddhist sites, tea plantations and palm-fringed white sand beaches continues to attract sun-starved Brits. Add to that a new batch of characterful, boutique-style hotels and it looks set for a bumper season. Here are six of the most desirable places to stay:

* Prices are for seven nights, per person, based on two sharing, including breakfast, return flights from the UK and transfers, unless stated otherwise.

Spa Fabulous

Saman Villas, perched on a rocky headland in the quiet village of Aturuwela, was one of Sri Lanka’s first boutique hotels, built 10 years ago. Sandwiched between two golden sand beaches backed by dense coconut palms, it has 27 recently refurbished luxury suites. The style is colonial elegance and the mood in the private pool suites is very romantic, making it popular with honeymooners and anniversary couples.

All suites have a separate lounge area, dressing room, open-air bathroom and terrace for sunset dining.

If you want to socialise, there’s an infinity pool, two bars and a restaurant. If head-to-toe pampering is more your game, the Sahana Spa is one of the best on the island. From £1,059 with private pool, through Kuoni (01306 747738/kuoni.co.uk).

All the Raj

Spoil yourself and live like they did during the days of the Raj, staying in an exquisitely restored colonial bungalow on the Bogawantalawa Estate in Sri Lanka’s tea country. The aptly named Tea Trails are in the most scenic part of the country, 4,000ft above sea-level, with views of mountain ranges and rolling emerald hills. Each of the 20 suites is filled with antiques, comes with a muslin-draped four-poster bed and butler service. Visit the working estate, go trekking, biking, white-water rafting or simply relax over a cuppa in gardens filled with birdsong. From £1,699, including one night B&B in the Hilton, Colombo, and six nights full-board including all wines and spirits, at Tea Trails, through Greaves Travel (020 7487 9111/

greavesindia.com).

The Last Word

Tangalle, on the island’s south coast, is an attractive chill-out zone littered with beautiful 18th-century villas, a reminder of the days of Dutch rule. Stay at Last House, so called because it was the swansong of Geoffrey Bawa, Sri Lanka’s most famous architect. The house has five generous-sized rooms, sweeping jade lawns down to a white sand beach, pool and a lagoon with resident herons and kingfishers. Interiors are striking: dark woods, rattan day beds, jewel-bright cushions and eclectic beachcombing finds. Book an Ayurvedic massage in your room, go out with the local fishermen to catch crabs and lobster, or visit the nearby turtle sanctuary. From £1,459, through Greaves Travel (as before).

Plantation Style

Galle Fort, on the south-west coast, has had a recent renaissance from crumbly ruin to the hippest destination on the island, with winding streets lined with old merchant’s houses that have been converted into shops and fashionable hotels. It can get overrun with gawpers during the day, so canny travellers stay just outside at places such as Illuketia, a converted estate house with six large double rooms, and pop into town at night to eat at one of the many restaurants. Hailed as one of the best plantation houses in the world, Illuketia has a spring-fed pool to make up for the lack of beach, and glamorous rooms with open-air tubs and antique four-posters. From £655, through Fleewinter (020 7112 0019/fleewinter.co.uk).

Gracious Living

If you can’t do without a pristine sand beach to sink your feet into, then Apa Villa, just a 10-minute drive from Galle, offers the perfect partnership of daytime chilling and lively nights out. What owner Hans Holfer, author and publisher of Insight Guides, doesn’t know about the perfect beach setting isn’t worth knowing. The six suites – more like individual villas – are scattered in a coconut grove overlooking the Indian Ocean. While the wraparound verandahs create a colonial feel, the polished steel and wooden furniture is sleek and contemporary. For ultimate relaxation the villa’s pool, shaded by giant palms, has a secluded deck perched above crashing surf. The food is excellent, too, but when you want to eat out in Galle, managers Claudia and Frank have recommendations. From £820, through Fleewinter (as before).

Beachfront Luxury

The Beach at Negombo, just 20 minutes drive from the airport, is larger than your average boutique hotel, with 78 rooms, but it still manages to remain intimate. Rooms are spacious, with sleek modern lines and sexy semi-open-air bathrooms. All boast sea views and are a few steps from the beach, with local bars, restaurants and shops just a short stroll away. Facilities include two pools, fitness centre, spa, tennis, watersports and children’s club, making it ideal for families. Sunday brunch, which attracts ex-pats and high rollers from Colombo, is a must. From £859, through Hayes & Jarvis (0870 850 3565/hayesandjarvis.co.uk).

INFORMATION:

Sri Lanka Tourist Board: 0845 8806 333/www.srilankatourism.org

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